Just when I felt like my training was getting a bit monotonous, I realized something. I'm getting strong. I haven't been in this kind of shape for a long time, and it feels really good.
I'm also really busy. As I've mentioned already, this whole working, training and living at the same time is really filling my plate. This being the case, I'm not feeling that motivated to sit and type. Below you'll find basic outlines of the training components of my week, and some other short details.
2/19
Climbing at Mr. Lees
-Redpointed The Shores of Hell (11.b)
-One good redpoint failure on White Lotus (11.d)
2/20
90 Minutes of Yoga
Bouldering with Elijah at Lizards Mouth
-30 or so problems, most of which were far below one star on the quality rating scale. Somehow, we had a nice time though. After more than a decade of hanging out at the Mouth, I still love being there.
2/21
Neighborhood walk
Restorative Postures
2/22
1 mile in the pool
-400 freestyle
-400 breaststroke
-800 freestyle
dynamic free dives
-2 x15 meters
-2 x35 meters
almost 1x 50 meters
2/23
90 minutes of yoga
8 minutes headstand variations
2/24
2000 in the pool
-400 freestyle
-400 breaststroke
-400 freestyle
-200 kickboard
-200 freestyle with leg float
-200 kickboard
-200 freestyle with kickboard
no freedives (my groin has been really sore from breaststroking which is the stroke I use when freediving. Bummer.)
Played an acoustic set at the Mercury Lounge. Good times. Lots of friends showed up. The house was packed. I played well considering how out of practice I am. Drank 5 stiff Belgium beers for free. Yummy.
2/25
Hungover madness.
2.5 movies
Friday, January 25, 2008
Monday, January 14, 2008
Balancing Act
Ah, another week gone by. Nothing too exciting to report other than the fact that I committed to playing a set at the Mercury lounge this coming Thursday. Just what I need right? Another activity to work into my life.
I guess that's been the recurring theme lately and the overall beauty of my challenge. I've spent most of my life struggling with how best to balance, well, my life. How do I find time to cook, eat, climb, practice yoga, swim, play the guitar, write, spend time with loved ones, sleep and make the money necessary to fund all of this? Well, my hope is that training for this challenge will help answer this question which haunts me on a daily basis.
1/12
Sun Salutations, Restorative postures
Climbing at Mr. Lees
-4 goes on Shores of Hell (11b) including 2 redpoint failures. Redpoint guaranteed next week.
-2 goes on some 11d
Climbing in Santa Maria is hard. Energy levels are rarely high after a day on the overhanging pockets of the Owl Tor and Mr. Lees. After a long day of climbing with cool folks including the ever popular Normal Guy, I was in need of some good food, and I sure as hell wasn't going to be the one to make it. So.... Zen Yai of course. For those of you that haven't had it yet, do yourselves are favor and go order the Duck Curry. It will change your life. I promise. Met up with Phil for drinks at Eos after dinner. 3 Gin and sodas and a complimentary glass of champagne. Time for bed.
1/13
Sun Salutations, Restorative Postures
The sun was out so I headed to Lizards Mouth to get some more problems wired. I ran into some of the UCSB kids that crank pretty hard. They distracted me from my original mission and showed me a new problem that's allot of fun. It's basically a sitstart to Phyllis Diedrickson. Great moves on an overhanging wall lead to a pumpy and fairly difficult topout. It's in the V5 range and well worth a few goes.
I also overheard that someone found a way to brake off part of the undercling on The Dancing Outlaw at The Brickyard. Are you ready for a rant? Well here goes.... That hold was REAL solid. The only way it could have possibly broken off would be if some idiot thought they were so fucking cool that they could climb only days after a heavy rain. Look guys, it's sandstone. It sucks up water, and breaks when weight is applied. Just because you have it wired and the fall won't kill you doesn't mean you can climb on it when it's wet. Quit unnecessarily defacing classics that some of us haven't done yet, and would really enjoy doing at some point. I'm glad people are motivated to climb, but holy shit, have some fucking ethics and wait for the rock to dry out! I haven't been down to the Brickyard yet to look at the damage, but I'll report in when I see it. Enough for now.
Here's a video I found of some random dudes working the Dancing Outlaw (No guys, that's not Lizards Mouth). Sorry about the ending to this. Climbers are dorks. It's not my fault.
I circuited some problems as the sun went down and then had a marvelous pranayama session.
1/14
1 mile in the pool
-400 freestyle
-400 breaststroke
-200 kickboard flutterkick
-200 freestyle with leg float
-4X40 underwater breaststroke
-200 freestyle
Work:
-Cabbage Frittata
-Pineapple and Quinoa Upma
-Celery Root Salad
-Black Mussel, Shitake, and Kale Stew
1/15
75 minute yoga. I skipped the headstand today because I tweaked my neck a bit climbing on Sunday.
Work:
-Jerk Shrimp with Quinoa Cakes, Spiced Black Beans, Curried Winter Squash, and Braised Collard Greens
-Leek Pate and Yellow Beet Borscht
-Roasted Root Vegetable Salad with Chili Honey Mustard Dressing
Went swimming at night after work. A nice change of pace.
1 mile in the pool
-800 freestyle!
-400 breaststroke
-200 flutter kick with kickboard
-200 freestyle with leg float
-6X15m underwater breaststroke with only 3 breaths between go's
1/16
90 minute yoga including 17 minute headstand (yeah my neck is feeling better)
Here's a photo of proper headstand:
Work:
-Mandarin Salad
-Coconut and Banana Bars (gluten free!)
-Wild Rice, Oyster Mushroom and Swiss Cheese Casserole
-Sweet Sesame Snap Peas
3 hours climbing at the shed
Felt strong. My endurance is really coming along. I felt smoother, lighter and quicker than I have in a long time. Made it up 6 or 7 different routes (a few of which I did multiple times). If you've climbed at the shed, you know how much climbing this equates to.
1/17
Barefoot neighborhood walk
Restorative postures
More or less a rest day.
Work:
-Chicken Legs in Viognier Sauce
-Potato Gratin
-Braised Broccoli
1/18
Sun Salutations and Restorative Poses
1 mile in the pool. I had hoped that I would get a big workout in today, but for some reason, I felt really weak, tired and unmotivated today. Probably a case of too much rest (10 hours+ of sleep last night and no drinks)
-200 freestyle
-200 catch up stroke
-4x100 freestyle sprints
-400 breaststroke
-400 freestyle
I guess that's been the recurring theme lately and the overall beauty of my challenge. I've spent most of my life struggling with how best to balance, well, my life. How do I find time to cook, eat, climb, practice yoga, swim, play the guitar, write, spend time with loved ones, sleep and make the money necessary to fund all of this? Well, my hope is that training for this challenge will help answer this question which haunts me on a daily basis.
1/12
Sun Salutations, Restorative postures
Climbing at Mr. Lees
-4 goes on Shores of Hell (11b) including 2 redpoint failures. Redpoint guaranteed next week.
-2 goes on some 11d
Climbing in Santa Maria is hard. Energy levels are rarely high after a day on the overhanging pockets of the Owl Tor and Mr. Lees. After a long day of climbing with cool folks including the ever popular Normal Guy, I was in need of some good food, and I sure as hell wasn't going to be the one to make it. So.... Zen Yai of course. For those of you that haven't had it yet, do yourselves are favor and go order the Duck Curry. It will change your life. I promise. Met up with Phil for drinks at Eos after dinner. 3 Gin and sodas and a complimentary glass of champagne. Time for bed.
1/13
Sun Salutations, Restorative Postures
The sun was out so I headed to Lizards Mouth to get some more problems wired. I ran into some of the UCSB kids that crank pretty hard. They distracted me from my original mission and showed me a new problem that's allot of fun. It's basically a sitstart to Phyllis Diedrickson. Great moves on an overhanging wall lead to a pumpy and fairly difficult topout. It's in the V5 range and well worth a few goes.
I also overheard that someone found a way to brake off part of the undercling on The Dancing Outlaw at The Brickyard. Are you ready for a rant? Well here goes.... That hold was REAL solid. The only way it could have possibly broken off would be if some idiot thought they were so fucking cool that they could climb only days after a heavy rain. Look guys, it's sandstone. It sucks up water, and breaks when weight is applied. Just because you have it wired and the fall won't kill you doesn't mean you can climb on it when it's wet. Quit unnecessarily defacing classics that some of us haven't done yet, and would really enjoy doing at some point. I'm glad people are motivated to climb, but holy shit, have some fucking ethics and wait for the rock to dry out! I haven't been down to the Brickyard yet to look at the damage, but I'll report in when I see it. Enough for now.
Here's a video I found of some random dudes working the Dancing Outlaw (No guys, that's not Lizards Mouth). Sorry about the ending to this. Climbers are dorks. It's not my fault.
I circuited some problems as the sun went down and then had a marvelous pranayama session.
1/14
1 mile in the pool
-400 freestyle
-400 breaststroke
-200 kickboard flutterkick
-200 freestyle with leg float
-4X40 underwater breaststroke
-200 freestyle
Work:
-Cabbage Frittata
-Pineapple and Quinoa Upma
-Celery Root Salad
-Black Mussel, Shitake, and Kale Stew
1/15
75 minute yoga. I skipped the headstand today because I tweaked my neck a bit climbing on Sunday.
Work:
-Jerk Shrimp with Quinoa Cakes, Spiced Black Beans, Curried Winter Squash, and Braised Collard Greens
-Leek Pate and Yellow Beet Borscht
-Roasted Root Vegetable Salad with Chili Honey Mustard Dressing
Went swimming at night after work. A nice change of pace.
1 mile in the pool
-800 freestyle!
-400 breaststroke
-200 flutter kick with kickboard
-200 freestyle with leg float
-6X15m underwater breaststroke with only 3 breaths between go's
1/16
90 minute yoga including 17 minute headstand (yeah my neck is feeling better)
Here's a photo of proper headstand:
Work:
-Mandarin Salad
-Coconut and Banana Bars (gluten free!)
-Wild Rice, Oyster Mushroom and Swiss Cheese Casserole
-Sweet Sesame Snap Peas
3 hours climbing at the shed
Felt strong. My endurance is really coming along. I felt smoother, lighter and quicker than I have in a long time. Made it up 6 or 7 different routes (a few of which I did multiple times). If you've climbed at the shed, you know how much climbing this equates to.
1/17
Barefoot neighborhood walk
Restorative postures
More or less a rest day.
Work:
-Chicken Legs in Viognier Sauce
-Potato Gratin
-Braised Broccoli
1/18
Sun Salutations and Restorative Poses
1 mile in the pool. I had hoped that I would get a big workout in today, but for some reason, I felt really weak, tired and unmotivated today. Probably a case of too much rest (10 hours+ of sleep last night and no drinks)
-200 freestyle
-200 catch up stroke
-4x100 freestyle sprints
-400 breaststroke
-400 freestyle
Friday, January 11, 2008
You're kidding me.... I have to work?
This week felt pretty hectic with two major shifts in my world. I Started working again, and Bridget disapeared to Honduras.
Still, I'm getting stronger and really enjoying my swim workouts. Turns out swimming is:
-super hard
-super inspiring
-super good for my body
There's much more "yoga" going on in the pool than I once realized. The combination of breathwork, body awareness, core focus and soliltude that it provides has left me very motivated. In fact I am conidering replacing the pranayama in my challenge with some sort of freediving challenge.... 72.9m (27x 2.7) meters underwater in the pool possibly?
1/4
75 min of yoga, 8 minute headstand
Had dinner at Bridget's parent’s house. Met the family etc. I think her parents like me. I was well behaved at least. Food was great. Tim (her dad) prepared venison that he shot himself on his ranch in Nor Cal. I probably polished off a bottle of wine.
1/5
Sun Salutations
Restorative/pranayama
Went to Vertical Heaven with a crew from the shed. Thanks to Paul for getting us in for free. Got on a bunch of routes. I did 10 or so ranging from 5.9 to 5.11+. Man, some of their 5.9's were a bit cruxy; cruxy enough for Phil, Elijah and I to fall on a few of them. And I thought the ratings at the Tor were sandbag.
Lauren hosted Bridget's birthday party tonight. Wow. My girlfriend is really fucking cute. I wish I had a photo of her in the dress she was wearing . Food and drinks galore, but Blake stole the show as usual. I'm not sure what was better: Him eating their goldfish and then vomiting it back up, or him challenging Cloe to a striptease contest and winning.
1/6
20 minute barefoot neighborhood walk
800 m in the pool
Restorative poses
Bridget left for Honduras today. :( She'll be down there for a few weeks studying Manatees (Water cows). I actually think I'm gonna miss her a bit.
Saw Glen Phillips play at Soho. He's always been one of my favorite song writers. In fact the first song I ever learned on the guitar was a Toad the Wet Sprocket song. Good times + 3 cocktails.
1/7
45 min of yoga (sun salutations, restorative and pranayama)
1 mile in the pool
-400 free
-400 free with leg float
-400 breastroke
-200 dolphin bread holds
-200 free
Back to the normal work schedule this week. Made some good stuff.-Banana Raita
-Eastarn Leek Patte on lavash
-Borscht
-Creamy Mushrooms with Tarragon, Shallot and Mascarpone Polenta
1/8
75 minutes of yoga including 15 minute headstand
Duck is one of my favorite things to eat on the planet.
-Duck with Rosemary and spice, Tangerine Carmelized Fennel with Lima Beans, Braised Cabbage
5 Drinks at Agave and Dargans
1/9
2000 meters in the pool!
-400 free
-400 flutter kicking drills
-400 breast
-200 dolphin kicking
-600 free
Hyderbadi Fish Korma with Bamboo Rice and Sweet Spiced Carrots
Genoise Spinach with Goji Berries
Granola
Breakfast Buckwheat
3 hours climbing at the Shed: I felt really strong tonight. I don't know if I've lost weight or what, but I was pulling off some nice moves.
Really tired when I got home. Passed out almost immediately after stuffing my face with leftovers from work.
1/10
90 minutes of yoga including 15 minute headstand (Not much stiffness later on in the day, but there was a really odd crack while I was driving that felt like an awesome chiropractic release. I can still feel my toes, so I assume everything’s fine.
Fresh local lobster for my clients. It's funny how we eat meat all the time and don't think about it at all, but during those few and far between times that we are in charge of the dirty work we feel awful. The nice part is every time I kill my food I almost always prepare and eat it with much more respect and reverence. One of those experiences that we feel truly alive when taking part in.
Vajra played at Soho. I love this band, but they'll never make it where they want to go with their current attitude and approach. A little too much "tell" to go with the "show" if you know what I mean. What happened to the 4 awesome and soulful musicians that I once saw jam their faces off? I polished off 6 gin and sodas trying to come up with an answer.
1/11
The gin and sodas last night left me feeling awful this morning. My planned 2000 was cut short by massive calf cramps.
1800 meters in the pool
-400 free
-400 breast
-200 flutter kick drill
-200 catch up stroke
-100 underwater dolphin kicking
-4x25 breathhold breaststroke
-400 free
Moped through work all day. Hangovers are awesome!
Still, I'm getting stronger and really enjoying my swim workouts. Turns out swimming is:
-super hard
-super inspiring
-super good for my body
There's much more "yoga" going on in the pool than I once realized. The combination of breathwork, body awareness, core focus and soliltude that it provides has left me very motivated. In fact I am conidering replacing the pranayama in my challenge with some sort of freediving challenge.... 72.9m (27x 2.7) meters underwater in the pool possibly?
1/4
75 min of yoga, 8 minute headstand
Had dinner at Bridget's parent’s house. Met the family etc. I think her parents like me. I was well behaved at least. Food was great. Tim (her dad) prepared venison that he shot himself on his ranch in Nor Cal. I probably polished off a bottle of wine.
1/5
Sun Salutations
Restorative/pranayama
Went to Vertical Heaven with a crew from the shed. Thanks to Paul for getting us in for free. Got on a bunch of routes. I did 10 or so ranging from 5.9 to 5.11+. Man, some of their 5.9's were a bit cruxy; cruxy enough for Phil, Elijah and I to fall on a few of them. And I thought the ratings at the Tor were sandbag.
Lauren hosted Bridget's birthday party tonight. Wow. My girlfriend is really fucking cute. I wish I had a photo of her in the dress she was wearing . Food and drinks galore, but Blake stole the show as usual. I'm not sure what was better: Him eating their goldfish and then vomiting it back up, or him challenging Cloe to a striptease contest and winning.
1/6
20 minute barefoot neighborhood walk
800 m in the pool
Restorative poses
Bridget left for Honduras today. :( She'll be down there for a few weeks studying Manatees (Water cows). I actually think I'm gonna miss her a bit.
Saw Glen Phillips play at Soho. He's always been one of my favorite song writers. In fact the first song I ever learned on the guitar was a Toad the Wet Sprocket song. Good times + 3 cocktails.
1/7
45 min of yoga (sun salutations, restorative and pranayama)
1 mile in the pool
-400 free
-400 free with leg float
-400 breastroke
-200 dolphin bread holds
-200 free
Back to the normal work schedule this week. Made some good stuff.-Banana Raita
-Eastarn Leek Patte on lavash
-Borscht
-Creamy Mushrooms with Tarragon, Shallot and Mascarpone Polenta
1/8
75 minutes of yoga including 15 minute headstand
Duck is one of my favorite things to eat on the planet.
-Duck with Rosemary and spice, Tangerine Carmelized Fennel with Lima Beans, Braised Cabbage
5 Drinks at Agave and Dargans
1/9
2000 meters in the pool!
-400 free
-400 flutter kicking drills
-400 breast
-200 dolphin kicking
-600 free
Hyderbadi Fish Korma with Bamboo Rice and Sweet Spiced Carrots
Genoise Spinach with Goji Berries
Granola
Breakfast Buckwheat
3 hours climbing at the Shed: I felt really strong tonight. I don't know if I've lost weight or what, but I was pulling off some nice moves.
Really tired when I got home. Passed out almost immediately after stuffing my face with leftovers from work.
1/10
90 minutes of yoga including 15 minute headstand (Not much stiffness later on in the day, but there was a really odd crack while I was driving that felt like an awesome chiropractic release. I can still feel my toes, so I assume everything’s fine.
Fresh local lobster for my clients. It's funny how we eat meat all the time and don't think about it at all, but during those few and far between times that we are in charge of the dirty work we feel awful. The nice part is every time I kill my food I almost always prepare and eat it with much more respect and reverence. One of those experiences that we feel truly alive when taking part in.
Vajra played at Soho. I love this band, but they'll never make it where they want to go with their current attitude and approach. A little too much "tell" to go with the "show" if you know what I mean. What happened to the 4 awesome and soulful musicians that I once saw jam their faces off? I polished off 6 gin and sodas trying to come up with an answer.
1/11
The gin and sodas last night left me feeling awful this morning. My planned 2000 was cut short by massive calf cramps.
1800 meters in the pool
-400 free
-400 breast
-200 flutter kick drill
-200 catch up stroke
-100 underwater dolphin kicking
-4x25 breathhold breaststroke
-400 free
Moped through work all day. Hangovers are awesome!
Thursday, January 3, 2008
2 Months to Go
12/30
Restorative Yoga and 6 hours of cooking
12/31
75 minutes of yoga and 10 hours of cooking with Roberto Cortez in LA. Liz Phair was in attendance looking very attractive (she's 44....wow.)
1/1
3 hours of pool fun (wrestling, underwater running, breath holds, diving board climbing,
800 meters or so of swimming, etc)
2 hours of climbing at the Shed
1/2
Sun Salutations and Pranayama
Coach Bridget took me to the Coral Casino for some swim training. In case you were wondering, it's pretty nice in there. I didn't want to leave the lockeroom. So much fun stuff to play with. After exploring for a little bit I swam about a mile in the pool. Bridget had me dolphin kick a few laps, which is absolutly brutal. She's working some of the kinks out of my stroke. I might even pass as a swimmer soon, if I trade in my board shorts for a sweet speedo.
Made some dinner for Bridget, Blake, Josh and I. Another great impov meal: Albacore baked with Potatoes, Leeks and Herbs along with an Arugula, Radish and Asiago Salad. 4 drinks at the James Joyce later on.
1/3
Sun Salutations and Restorative postures
50 problems alone at the Brickyard.... including some scary stuff and some harder stuff.... felt pretty strong the whole time, but I'm exausted now.
Restorative Yoga and 6 hours of cooking
12/31
75 minutes of yoga and 10 hours of cooking with Roberto Cortez in LA. Liz Phair was in attendance looking very attractive (she's 44....wow.)
1/1
3 hours of pool fun (wrestling, underwater running, breath holds, diving board climbing,
800 meters or so of swimming, etc)
2 hours of climbing at the Shed
1/2
Sun Salutations and Pranayama
Coach Bridget took me to the Coral Casino for some swim training. In case you were wondering, it's pretty nice in there. I didn't want to leave the lockeroom. So much fun stuff to play with. After exploring for a little bit I swam about a mile in the pool. Bridget had me dolphin kick a few laps, which is absolutly brutal. She's working some of the kinks out of my stroke. I might even pass as a swimmer soon, if I trade in my board shorts for a sweet speedo.
Made some dinner for Bridget, Blake, Josh and I. Another great impov meal: Albacore baked with Potatoes, Leeks and Herbs along with an Arugula, Radish and Asiago Salad. 4 drinks at the James Joyce later on.
1/3
Sun Salutations and Restorative postures
50 problems alone at the Brickyard.... including some scary stuff and some harder stuff.... felt pretty strong the whole time, but I'm exausted now.
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