I guess that's been the recurring theme lately and the overall beauty of my challenge. I've spent most of my life struggling with how best to balance, well, my life. How do I find time to cook, eat, climb, practice yoga, swim, play the guitar, write, spend time with loved ones, sleep and make the money necessary to fund all of this? Well, my hope is that training for this challenge will help answer this question which haunts me on a daily basis.
1/12
Sun Salutations, Restorative postures
Climbing at Mr. Lees
-4 goes on Shores of Hell (11b) including 2 redpoint failures. Redpoint guaranteed next week.
-2 goes on some 11d
Climbing in Santa Maria is hard. Energy levels are rarely high after a day on the overhanging pockets of the Owl Tor and Mr. Lees. After a long day of climbing with cool folks including the ever popular Normal Guy, I was in need of some good food, and I sure as hell wasn't going to be the one to make it. So.... Zen Yai of course. For those of you that haven't had it yet, do yourselves are favor and go order the Duck Curry. It will change your life. I promise. Met up with Phil for drinks at Eos after dinner. 3 Gin and sodas and a complimentary glass of champagne. Time for bed.
1/13
Sun Salutations, Restorative Postures
The sun was out so I headed to Lizards Mouth to get some more problems wired. I ran into some of the UCSB kids that crank pretty hard. They distracted me from my original mission and showed me a new problem that's allot of fun. It's basically a sitstart to Phyllis Diedrickson. Great moves on an overhanging wall lead to a pumpy and fairly difficult topout. It's in the V5 range and well worth a few goes.
I also overheard that someone found a way to brake off part of the undercling on The Dancing Outlaw at The Brickyard. Are you ready for a rant? Well here goes.... That hold was REAL solid. The only way it could have possibly broken off would be if some idiot thought they were so fucking cool that they could climb only days after a heavy rain. Look guys, it's sandstone. It sucks up water, and breaks when weight is applied. Just because you have it wired and the fall won't kill you doesn't mean you can climb on it when it's wet. Quit unnecessarily defacing classics that some of us haven't done yet, and would really enjoy doing at some point. I'm glad people are motivated to climb, but holy shit, have some fucking ethics and wait for the rock to dry out! I haven't been down to the Brickyard yet to look at the damage, but I'll report in when I see it. Enough for now.
Here's a video I found of some random dudes working the Dancing Outlaw (No guys, that's not Lizards Mouth). Sorry about the ending to this. Climbers are dorks. It's not my fault.
I circuited some problems as the sun went down and then had a marvelous pranayama session.
1/14
1 mile in the pool
-400 freestyle
-400 breaststroke
-200 kickboard flutterkick
-200 freestyle with leg float
-4X40 underwater breaststroke
-200 freestyle
Work:
-Cabbage Frittata
-Pineapple and Quinoa Upma
-Celery Root Salad
-Black Mussel, Shitake, and Kale Stew
1/15
75 minute yoga. I skipped the headstand today because I tweaked my neck a bit climbing on Sunday.
Work:
-Jerk Shrimp with Quinoa Cakes, Spiced Black Beans, Curried Winter Squash, and Braised Collard Greens
-Leek Pate and Yellow Beet Borscht
-Roasted Root Vegetable Salad with Chili Honey Mustard Dressing
Went swimming at night after work. A nice change of pace.
1 mile in the pool
-800 freestyle!
-400 breaststroke
-200 flutter kick with kickboard
-200 freestyle with leg float
-6X15m underwater breaststroke with only 3 breaths between go's
1/16
90 minute yoga including 17 minute headstand (yeah my neck is feeling better)
Here's a photo of proper headstand:
Work:
-Mandarin Salad
-Coconut and Banana Bars (gluten free!)
-Wild Rice, Oyster Mushroom and Swiss Cheese Casserole
-Sweet Sesame Snap Peas
3 hours climbing at the shed
Felt strong. My endurance is really coming along. I felt smoother, lighter and quicker than I have in a long time. Made it up 6 or 7 different routes (a few of which I did multiple times). If you've climbed at the shed, you know how much climbing this equates to.
1/17
Barefoot neighborhood walk
Restorative postures
More or less a rest day.
Work:
-Chicken Legs in Viognier Sauce
-Potato Gratin
-Braised Broccoli
1/18
Sun Salutations and Restorative Poses
1 mile in the pool. I had hoped that I would get a big workout in today, but for some reason, I felt really weak, tired and unmotivated today. Probably a case of too much rest (10 hours+ of sleep last night and no drinks)
-200 freestyle
-200 catch up stroke
-4x100 freestyle sprints
-400 breaststroke
-400 freestyle
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